Cosmetic Composition

ABSTRACT

Present invention is on styling composition comprising at least one film forming polymer, at least one polyol at a concentration of 5% by weight or higher and polyacryloldimethyltaurate and/or its salts. The composition of the present invention improves curl retention, curl separation, shine and manageability of hair.

The present invention is related to a hair styling compositions withimproved curl retention, curl separation, shine and manageabilityeffects.

Styling compositions have been known for decades. They are used afterusual hair conditioning cycle to give hair better and long lasting hold,to improve hair volume or simply to fix the hair so that the hair doesnot move naturally.

Although the extensive studies available in the prior art, improvementsare still needed especially in obtaining long lasting curly appearance,better shine and easy to manageable hair.

The inventors of the present invention has found out surprisingly that ahair styling composition based on a film forming polymer and comprisingfurthermore at least 5% by weight of the total composition a polyol andan anionic polymer, polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate and/or its saltsimproves the curl retention and curl separation, gives hair excellentshine and hair is easily stylable—improved managaility.

The term curl separation means that curls appears in a tidy way withwaves. In a hair streak with no curl separation curls can not be clearlyidentified.

Further object of the present invention is the use of a compositioncomprising at least one film forming polymer, at least 5% by weight ofthe total composition a polyol and an anionic polymer, polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and/or its salts for improving curl retention, curlseparation, shine and managaility of hair

Still further object of the present invention is a process for improvingshine, manageability and curl retention of curly hair characterised inthat on a shampooed and towel dried hair a composition comprising atleast one film forming polymer, at least 5% by weight of the totalcomposition a polyol and an anionic polymer, polyacryloyl dimethyltaurate and/or its salts is applied and the hair is air-dried or driedwith electrical hair drier.

WO 2004/063228 A1 discloses compositions with the anionic polymerpolyacryloyl dimethyl taurate and its sodium salts. The compositionsdisclosed therein are mainly in the skin care compositions and nostyling compositions have been included.

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one filmforming polymer. The polymer is selected from the anionic, non-ionic,cationic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic ones. The most preferred onesare the non-ionic and anionic types. The presence of the other types ispossible in combination with the non-ionic ones.

Non-ionic polymers are selected from the ones soluble in water and/oralcohol and/or in alcohol water mixtures, at any ratio. Under thedefinition of soluble in alcohol and alcohol water mixture, it should beunderstood that the polymer is soluble in lower alcohols such asethanol, n-propanol or isopropanol and in their mixtures with water, atany ratio

Suitable non-ionic polymer is first of all vinylpyrrolidon polymerseither homopolymers or copolymers with, especially, vinylacetate. Thoseare known with the trade name “Luviskol” as homopolymers Luviskol K 30,K 60 or K 90 as well copolymers Luviskol VA 55, VA 64 from BASF AG.

Natural non-ionic polymers are as well suitable for the composition ofthe present invention. Those are such as cellulose, chitosan, guar gum,neutralised shellac and their derivatives.

As amphoteric polymers which can be used alone or in mixture with atleast one additional cationic and/or nonionic polymer, reference is heremade in particular to copolymers of N-octyl acrylamide, (meth)acrylicacid and tert.-butyl aminoethyl methacrylate of the type “Amphomer®”;copolymers from methacryloyl ethyl betaine and alkyl methacrylates ofthe type “Yukaformer®”, e.g. the butyl methacrylate copolymer“Yukaformer® Am75”; copolymers from monomers containing carboxyl groupsand sulfonic groups, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid and itaconic acid, withmonomers such as mono- or dialkyl aminoalkyl (meth)acrylates or mono- ordialkyl aminoalkyl(meth)acrylamides containing basic groups, inparticular amino groups; copolymers from N-octyl acrylamide, methylmethacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, N-tert.-butylaminoethyl-methacrylate and acrylic acid, as well as the copolymersknown from U.S. Pat. No. 3,927,199.

Anionic polymers may as well be contained in compositions of the presentinvention. Suitable ones are vinyl alkyl ether, in particular methylvinyl ether/maleic acid copolymers, obtained by hydrolysis of vinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers, distributed under the trade name“Gantrez® AN or ES”. These polymers may also be partly esterified, asfor example, “Gantrez® ES 225” or “ES 435”, the ethyl ester of an ethylvinyl ether/maleic acid copolymer, or the butyl or isobutyl esterthereof.

Further useful anionic polymers are in particular vinyl acetate/crotonicacid or vinyl acetate/vinyl neodecanoate/crotonic acid copolymers of thetype “Resyn®”; sodium acrylate/vinyl alcohol copolymers of the type“Hydagen® F”, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, e.g. “Flexan® 130”; ethylacrylate/acrylic acid/N-tert.-butyl acrylamide copolymers of the type“Ultrahold®”; vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/itaconic acid copolymers,acrylic acid/acrylamide copolymers or the sodium salts thereof of thetype “Reten®”; etc.

Composition of the present invention may comprise cationic polymers asconditioning agents. Those are cationic cellulose type polymers know asPolymer JR type from Amerchol such as Polyquaternium 10 or cationic guargum known with trade name Jaguar from Rhône-Poulenc and chemically forexample Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Furthermore. chitosan andchitin can also be included in the compositions as cationic naturalpolymers.

Furthermore, those cationic polymers known with their CTFA category namePolyquaternium may as well be added into the compositions of the presentinvention. Typical examples of those are Polyquaternium 6,Polyquaternium 7, Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium 11, Polyquaternium16, Polyquaternium 22 and Polyquaternium 28, Polyquaternium 30,Polyquaternium 37, Polyquaternium 36, Polyquaternium 46.

As well those polymers known with their CTFA category name Quaterniumcan as well be suitable. Those are for example Quaternium-8,Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-18, Quaternium-22,Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30,Quaternium-33, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61,Quaternium-72, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81,Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-84.

In this context, reference is also made to the cationic polymersdisclosed in DE 25 21 960, 28 11 010, 30 44 738 and 32 17 059, as wellas to the products described in EP-A 337 354 on pages 3 to 7, It is alsopossible to use mixtures of various cationic polymers.

The cationic polymers also include the quaternized products of graftpolymers from organopolysiloxanes and polyethyl oxazolines described inEP-A 524 612 and EP-A 640 643.

Concentration of polymers of anionic, cationic, non-ionic and/oramphoteric or zwitterionic character is in the range of 0.1-15%,preferably 0.5-12.5% and most preferably 1-10% by weight, calculated tothe total composition.

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyolat a concentration of 5% or more, preferably 7.5% or more and morepreferably 10% or more by weight calculated to the total concentration.Maximum concentration of at least one polyol is preferably 30% and morepreferably 25% by weight calculated to total composition. The mostpreferred ones are glycerine, propylene glycols, butylene glycol andhexylene glycol. Further suitable one is sorbitol. It is also thepreferred embodiment of the present invention that the compositionscomprise at least two different polyols such as glycerine together withpropylene or hexylene or butylene glycols.

The anionic polymer of taurate type is the third component of theinventive composition. The polymer is commercially available fromLamberti spa under the trade name Viscolam AT 100/P and is an admixturewith hydrogenated polydecene and trideceth—10. Concentration of thetaurate type of anionic polymer, poylacryloyldimethyl taurate, is in therange of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 7.5% and more preferably 0.5 to5% and most preferably 1 to 5% by weight calculated to totalcomposition.

The styling compositions according to the present invention may compriseat least one silicone oil as the fourth essential component. Preferredsilicone oils are known with their INCI name as dimethicone,dimethiconol, cyclomethicone and phenyltrimethicone. Commercially, theyare available from various companies for example Dow Corning with theknown DC series, Wacker Chemie and Toray silicones. All commerciallyavailable non volatile silicones are suitable in the compositions of thepresent invention. Examples to those are DC 200 series, DC1401, DC 1403,DC 1501 and DC 1503. Concentration of silicone oils in the compositionsof the present invention is typically between 1 to 20% by weightcalculated to total composition. Volatile silicone oils can as well becontained in the hair treatment compositions in mixture with nonvolatilesilicone oils within the scope of the present invention with thecondition that their content should not exceed ¼, preferably 1/10 of thenonvolatile silicone oil content of the composition.

Cationic silicones know with INCI name as amodimethicone can as well becontained in the compositions of the present invention. Commercially itis available under the trade name DC 949 in emulsified form in mixturewith a nonionic surfactant and a cationic surfactant.

Cationic surfactants may as well be incorporated into the sytlingcompositions of the present invention. The cationic surfactants usefulin the compositions are according to the general formula below:

where R₈ is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 8-22 C atoms orR₁₂CONH(CH₂)_(n)where R₁₂ is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4 orR₁₃COO(CH₂)_(n)where R₁₃ is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4. andR₉ is a hydrogen, lower alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, saturatedor unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 8-22 C atomsorR₁₂CONH(CH₂)_(n)where R₁₂ is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4 orR₁₃COO(CH₂)_(n)where R₁₃ is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4. andR₁₀ and R₁₁ are independent from each other H or lower alkyl chain with1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is chloride, bromide or methosulfate.

It should be noted that quaternary ammonium compounds with single alkylchain are preferred. Suitable cationic surfactants and or conditioningagents are, for example, long-chain quaternary ammonium compounds whichcan be used alone or in admixture with one another, such as cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, myristoyl trimethyl ammonium chloride,trimethyl cetyl ammonium bromide, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride,dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride, dimethyl dihydrogenated tallowammonium chloride, stear trimonium chloride, dipalmitoyl dimoniumchloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyltrimonuim chloride and dioleoylethyl dimethyl ammonium methosulfate,etc.

From the above quaternary ammonium compounds disclosed with the generalformula, especially preferred as hair conditioning agents are thosecompounds known per se and are on the market, for example, under thetrade names “Schercoquat®”, “Dehyquart® F30” and “Tetranyl®”. Use ofthese compounds, the so-called “esterquats”, in hair care compositionsis described, for example, in WO-A 93/107 48, WO-A 92/068 99 and WO-A94/166 77, wherein, however, there is no reference made to thecombinations according to the present invention and the advantageousproperties thereof.

Again from the above quaternary ammonium compounds disclosed with thegeneral formula, especially preferred as conditioning ingredient arethese compounds are known per se and on the market, for example, underthe trade name “INCROQUAT® HO” or “OCS”. Those compounds are known witha general ingredient category under “amidoquat” in the cosmeticindustry.

Concentration of at least one cationic surfactant of the above generalformula is in the range of 0.01 to 2%, preferably 0.05 to 1.5% by weightand more preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight calculated to total composition.

Composition of the present invention comprises one or more naturaland/or synthethic oil and/or mineral oil at a concentration of 0.1% to15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% and most preferably 1.5 to 7.5% by weightcalculated to total composition, Suitable natural oils are such asavocado oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, whale oil,sunflower oil, almond oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamianut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, or also olive oil,soya oil, and the derivatives thereof. Mineral oils such as paraffin oiland petrolatum are suitably contained within the scope of the presentinvention, It should as well be noted that hair treatment compositionscan contain mixture of one or more natural oils and mineral oil.

Further, suitable synthetic oil components are in particular fattyalcohol fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myristate, palmitate,stearate and isostearate, oleyl oleate, isocetyl stearate, hexyllaurate, dibutyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, myristyl myristate, oleylerucate, polyethylene glycol and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, cetylpalmitate, etc.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise furtheragents, such as protein hydrolyzates and polypeptides, e.g. keratinhydrolyzates, collagen hydrolyzates of the type “Nutrilan®” or elastinhydrolyzates, as well as, in particular vegetable, optionally cationizedprotein hydrolyzates, for example “Gluadin®”.

Additional natural plant extracts can as well form part of thecompositions of the present invention. Those are incorporated usually inan amount of about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably 0.05% to 3.5%, inparticular 0.1% to 2% by weight, calculated as dry residue thereof tothe total composition. Suitable aqueous (e.g. steam-distilled) alcoholicor hydro-alcoholic plant extracts known per se are in particularextracts from leaves, fruits, blossoms, roots, rinds or stems of aloe,pineapple, artichoke, arnica, avocado, valerian, bamboo, henbane, birch,stinging nettle, echinacea, ivy, wild angelica, gentian, ferns, pineneedles, silver weed, ginseng, broom, oat, rose hip, hamamelis, hayflowers, elderberry, hop, coltsfoot, currants, chamomile, carrots,chestnuts, clover, burr root, coconut, cornflower, lime blossom, lily ofthe valley, marine algae, balm, mistletoe, passion flower, ratanhia,marigold, rosemary, horse chestnut, pink hawthorn, sage, horsetail,yarrow, primrose, nettle, thyme, walnut, wine leaves, white hawthorn,etc.

Suitable trade products are, for example, the various “Extrapon®”products, “Herbasol®”, “Sedaplant®” and “Hexaplant®”,. Extracts and thepreparation thereof are also described in “Hagers Handbuch derpharmazeutischen Praxis”. 4^(th) Ed.

The hair treatment compositions compositions may contain one or moreorganic solvents within the scope of the invention, such as ethanol,propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol, alkylenecarbonates such as ethylene carbonate and propylene carbonate,phenoxyethanol, butanol, isobutanol, cyclohexane, cyclohexanol,ethylenecarbonate, ethyleneglycol monoethylether, ethylene glycolmonobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, 1-phenylethylalcohol,2-phenylethylalcohol, o-methoxyphenol.

Compositions of the present invention may contain UV filters either forstabilization of the product colour or for protection of hair fromenvironmental influences such as loss of elasticity, loss of hair colour(bleaching effect of sun light). The UV-absorbing substance ispreferably selected from the following compounds: 4-Aminobenzoic acidand the esters and salts thereof, 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acidand the alkali and amine salts thereof, 4-dimethyl aminobenzoic acid andthe esters and salts thereof, cinnamic acid and the esters and saltsthereof, 4-methoxycinnamic acid and the esters and salts thereof,salicylic acid and the esters and salts thereof,2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2′,4,4′-tetrahydroxy-benzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and its 5-sulfonic acid or the sodiumsalt thereof, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-5-chlorobenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxy-5,5′-disulfobenzo-phenone or the sodiumsalt thereof, 2-hydroxy-4-octyloxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone, 3-benzyl-idenecampher,3-(4′-sulfo)-benzyl-idenebornane-2-one and the salts thereof and/or3-(4′-methyl benzylidene)-DL-campher.

The preferred amount of the UV-absorber ranges from about 0.01% to 1% byweight, calculated to the total composition. Attention should be paid tothe stability and appearance especially when using UV filter as salts,e.g. anionic UV filter salts.

Compositions of the present invention can be applied onto hair either byspraying or by rubbing into hair with fingers. In the case that thecompositions are intended to be applied by spraying, it is the preferredembodiment of the present invention that it comprises organic solvent ata concentration of maximum 65% by weight calculated to totalcomposition. The preferred organic solvent is ethanol. The preferredlowest concentration is 40% by weight calculated to total composition.The compositions thus obtained show viscosity values lower than 1000mPa·s., preferably lower than 500 mPa·s, typically between 50 and 250mPa·s. measured at room temperature with a Brookfield viscosimetre witha suitable spindle and rotation speed, for example Spindle 1 at 25 rpm.

The compositions can also be in the form of a thickened gel. Thesecompositions comprise preferably organic solvents at a concentrationwith a maximum of 45%, preferably 30% and more preferably 20% by weightcalculated to total composition. The viscosity of these compositions isabove 1,000 mPa·s measured with a Brookfield viscosimeter at 20° C. witha suitable spindle and rotation speed, for example spindle 5 at 10 rpm.Viscosity values are preferably in the range of 5000 to 50000 mPa·s,more preferably 7500 to 40000 mPa·s and most preferably 10000 to 30000mPa·s.

pH of the compositions vary between 3 to 9, preferably 4 to 8 and morepreferably 5 to 8 measured at room temperature.

The following examples are to illustrate the invention and non-limiting.

EXAMPLE 1

% by weight A B C VP/VA Copolymer  5  5  5 Glycerin — 10 10 Propylenegylcol — 10 10 Viscolam AT 100 P — —  2 Ethanol 50 50 50Aminomethylpropanol q.s. to pH 6.00 Water to 100

The compositions A and B are not in accordance with the invention andfor comparative purposes. The composition C is according to theinvention and has a viscosity of 150 mPa·s measured at 20° C. with theabove mentioned method.

The above compositions were tested in a laboratory test for their curlretention and curl separation ability. It was found out that thecomposition C in accordance of the present invention showed the bestcurl retention and curl separation ability.

In a further test, the compositions A and B were compared to compositionC in a half side test with female volunteers having curly hair. For thispurpose, the hair of the volunteers was washed with a regularcommercially available shampoo and subsequently approximately 3 g of thetest compositions were applied onto each side of the hair by sprayingfrom a bottle equipped with a pump spray (the amount given is for perhalf side). Hair dressers were asked to evaluate curl appearance, curlseparation, shine and hair manageability.

In the first test, composition A vs C, in all cases the appearance ofthe curls (curl retention and curl separation), shine and manageabilitywere found to be much better at the side treated with inventivecomposition C.

In the second test composition B vs C, the curl appearance (curlretention and curl separation) was found to be in 50% of the cases muchbetter for the side tested with composition C and in the remaining 50%the side treated with composition C was judged to be better than thecomposition B. Shine was observed to be better in 70% of the cases forthe side treated with the inventive composition and manageability was aswell judged to be better in 70% of the case with the inventivecomposition.

From the above results the conclusion is clear that the inventivecomposition improves curl retention, curl separation and shine andmanageability of hair.

Similar results were obtained with the examples below.

EXAMPLE 2

VP/VA Copolymer  5 Glycerin 10 Propylene gylcol 10 Viscolam AT 100 P  3DC 1503 fluid  2 Cetrimonium chloride   0.1 Aminomethylpropanol q.s. topH 6.8 Fragrance, preservative q.s Water to 100

Viscosity of the composition was 18000 as measured at 20° C. with theabove method.

EXAMPLE 3 Spayable

VP/VA Copolymer 10 Glycerin  5 Propylene gylcol 10 Viscolam AT 100 P  2Ethanol 55 Isopropylpalmitate  3 Cetrimonium chloride   0.1Aminomethylpropanol q.s. to pH 6.8 Fragrance, preservative q.s Water to100

Viscosity of the composition is 125 mPa·S. measured with the methodgiven above at 20° C.

EXAMPLE 4

VP/VA Copolymer   7.5 Glycerin 10 Propylene gylcol  5 Viscolam AT 100 P 2 Olive oil  3 Cetrimonium chloride   0.1 Benzophenone-3   0.1Aminomethylpropanol q.s. to pH 6.2 Fragrance, preservative q.s Water to100

Viscosity of the composition is 25000 mPa·S. measured with the methodgiven above at 20° C.

1- Composition for hair characterised in that it comprises at least onefilm forming polymer, at least one polyol at a concentration of morethen 5% by weight calculated to total composition and poylacryloldimethyl taurate and/or its salts. 2- Composition according to claim 1characterised in that it comprises at least one film forming polymer ata concentration of 0.1 to 15% by weight calculated to total composition.3- Composition according to claims 1 characterised in that it comprisespoylacrylol dimethyl taurate and/or its salts at a concentration of 0.1to 10% by weight calculated to total composition. 4- Compositionaccording to claims 1 characterised in that it comprises two or morepolyols at a concentration of 5% or more calculated to totalcomposition. 5- Composition according to claim 1 characterised in thatit comprises at least one silicone oil. 6- Composition according toclaim 1 characterised in that it comprises at least one cationicsurfactant at a concentration of 0.01 to 2% by weight calculated tototal composition. 7- Composition according to claim 1 characterised inthat it comprises natural and/or synthetic and/or mineral oil. 8-Composition according to claim 7 characterised in that it comprises atleast one fatty alcohol fatty acid esters as a synthetic oil component9- Composition according to claim 1 characterised in that it comprisesat least one UV filter. 10- Composition according to claim 1characterised in that it comprises organic solvent at a concentration ofmaximum 65% by weight calculated to total composition. 11- Compositionaccording to claim 1 characterised in that it has a pH between 3 and 9.12- (canceled) 13- Process for improving shine, manageability and curlretention and curl separation of curly hair characterised in that on ashampooed and towel dried hair a composition according to any of theclaims 1 is applied and the hair is air-dried or dried with electricalhair drier.